Two weeks ago was the Holiday of Shavuot, 7 weeks after the end of Pesach (Passover). It was a long weekend starting with Shabbat, and then right after that - Shavuot. I celebrated it in a very special place, which I had wanted to visit for a long time - the holy city of Hevron (Hebron). It was my first time in the city, and I didn't know what to expect.
I took the bus from Jerusalem to Hevron. It was a shielded bus, but you could never tell - it looked just like any other bus. I sat in the front seat, looking out the window as the bus traveled through the hilly terrain of Judea, reaching south towards Hevron. The road was dotted with vineyards and olive plantations, two of the Seven Species of Eretz Israel (the Land of Israel). Right before it reached Hevron, it went to a Jewish neighborhood adjacent to Hevron, called Kiryat Arba. It is a beautiful Jewish town with lots of new buildings, covered with shiny Jerusalem-stone bricks. Then, the bus continued traveling. And I found myself in Arab neighborhoods - I had no idea that the route the bus takes goes through those neighborhoods. I once had a dream that I was in Gaza. Even now I remember the streets, the buildings, the shops, the atmosphere that I saw in that dream. In Hevron, this dream came to life. The driver saw my reaction and laughed. My stop - the Avraham Avinu neighborhood (named after Abraham our father), was the one before last on that route. I was alone on the bus at that point. He told me that this is where I get off. I was reluctant, and... surprised to find myself in such a place. But it was no mistake. He reassured me that I have nothing to worry about.
I got off, walked in this Arab looking area, until I found the place where I was supposed to spend the Holiday with a few more people. Relieved, I soon found myself within a Jewish area, albeit tiny and small, with beautiful buildings covered with Jerusalem-stone bricks. At night, I went to pray at Me'arat HaMachpela (the Cave of the Patriarchs). This was the first time in my life to see that huge, powerful building. It was Friday night, and the first night of the Ramadan, so the entrance to Jews was forbidden. We couldn't get in. We had to pray outside at what is called "The Seventh Step", while the Muslims were allowed entrance and prayed inside. It was moving to hear the Jewish crowds singing Shabbat songs and praying with all of their heart and might, when in the background the Mu'azeen was calling on a loud speaker the traditional Muslim call. I found it moving to see how these young, vibrant voices of the Jewish people there were trying to overcome the deafening sound of the Mu'azeen's calls through the loud speaker. Soon I was no longer distracted by it. In this place, the Cave of the Patriarch, tradition holds that Abraham and Sarah are buried (Abraham bought it to bury Sarah, Genesis 23:8-19), as well as Isaac and Rivkah and Jacob and Leah. Therefore, the place is holy also to the Muslims, who are the descendants of Abraham (through Hagar). On the burial cave, King Herod built a magnificent edifice. This building is the only intact building from that time (2000 years ago!). I was sorry I couldn't go in it, but on the next day, our soldiers allowed Jews to go in, only at different hours than the Arabs.
I was moved to have my feet step on these ancient, old stones. The edifice is just gorgeous. It has high vaulted ceilings, and floors made of huge stones. The walls are covered with stones framed in the Roman style. On some of the stones there are engravings in Greek and Hebrew of names that sound Jewish, or Helenized Jewish (like Abrahamos, Nahumos, etc.). People 2,000 years ago engraved their names on the wall probably in prayer that in the merit of the Patriarchs, their lot in life would improve.
It was very special to say the prayer there - the first blessing of this prayer talks about Avraham, Isaac and Jacob: "Blessed are You, L-rd our G-d and G-d of our fathers, G-d of Abraham, G-d of Isaac and G-d of Jacob, the great, might and awesome G-d, exalted G-d, who bestows bountiful kindness, who creates all things, who remembers the piety of the Patriarchs, and who, in love, brings a redeemer to their children's children, for the sake of His name. Oh, King, You are a helper, a savior and a shield. Blessed are You L-rd, shield of Abraham". It had a special meaning for me to say it there, of all places.
On Shavuot night, I went to the Cave again after the Holiday meal, and there I heard Torah classes and lectures until 4 am at night. We have this custom to stay awake to learn Torah on this holiday, because it is the holiday in which we received the Torah. During the daytime prayer, they opened a Torah scroll and read the Ten Commandments from the Yitro Portion in the Torah (from the Book of Exodus), and the whole congregation, including me, stood on our feet.
The street leading from where I stayed to the Cave was split in half. One half for the Jews, and the other for the Muslims, just to prevent clashes. But me, who had no idea which side is supposed to be for which people, just walked randomly without thinking twice about it, and I later saw other people doing the same. I met Arabs going to pray. I tried to make eye contact and smile at them, to be able to start a conversation. Some of the time I couldn't - they wouldn't interact with me. But other times, it worked. They looked back at me, smiled. I complemented a young father on his cute little boy. He was happy to hear and talked back to me a bit, smiling. It was nice.
At night, after the Shabbat and Holiday dinners, me and a few more people went out to our soldiers to give them some good Shabbat food, cakes, fruit, etc. They were so happy. Some of them said they cannot eat while on the job, but once they finish their duty for the day, they would enjoy it. Others told us that it is OK, because the commander was with them, and he allowed them to eat. These soldiers are such beautiful flowers. So serious and mature for their young age. Later, on the day of Shavuot we went on a walk to the Tomb of Ruth and Yishai (father of King David). King David reigned in Hevron for 7 years, and in that time he buried his great-grandmother and his father. They are buried there. We went there to read the amazing story of the Jewish convert, Ruth, at her burial place. This is one of my favorite books in the TANACH, and it was moving to read it there.
On our way to the burial place, it was a chance for me to see more of the Arab neighborhoods of Hevron. I saw Israeli soldiers talk in Arabic with local people, making them smile, and wishing them "Ramadan Karim" (Happy Ramadan or something like this). Later, I saw a small Arab girl, of about 6 or 7 years old, clinging to an Israeli soldier, hugging him, enjoying the confidence he gave her. He was so kind and sweet to her, and to us, and she felt reassured at his side. I thought to myself - this is completely different than anything I have been told so far by the Media. Why doesn't the Media report such behaviors, the friendships that there are between our soldiers and the local Arab population? I saw so many instances of it, and the Media would never talk about it. I was so happy to see our soldiers behaving so nicely to the Arabs in Hevron. It made me happy.
I'm still thinking about what I've seen and experienced in Hevron. Not everything was sweet. There were still Arab people who wouldn't smile back, and in different places in the Jewish neighborhood there were memorial plaques with names of people (including a baby) who were murdered by local Arabs, but all in all - I think that this city has hope, and maybe it is even a symbol of hope - hope of coexistence and love.
Shabbat Shalom,
Revital